Ecocell2 Instructions: How to install your hydrogen generator or booster
You will need various things to complete your install:
· Basic hand tools
· Maybe some extra wire
· About 3-4 feet of 3/8 tubing
· Zip ties
· Possibly some bungee cords
Your package should have contained:
· One Hydrogen Generator (also called an electrolyzer)
· One fuse holder
· 2 wires, one black and one red
Mount the HHO EcoCell 2 hydrogen device in the engine compartment. It should be mounted flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around when the vehicle hits bumps etc. Position the device so that it can easily be accessed and can be conveniently removed and filled with water, or cleaned, serviced or inspected.
IMPORTANT: INSTALL THE DEVICE AWAY FROM HOT AREAS as much as possible. If you’re not sure where that is, Harbor Freight Tools has a digital non-contact thermometer for under $7 (item 93983-2VGA). Use this tool to locate the coolest available place in the engine area.
I cannot give you an exact number here for what is “too hot”, because there is a combination of heating factors here: weather, engine, and the electrolysis process itself. All I can tell you that in two cases the Electrolyzer mostly melted and only the glass survived. In both cases this occurred as a result of (1) too much heat radiated by the engine through the air to the Electrolyzer, and (2) too much electrolyte. There is a situation called Thermal Runaway, where an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in this case the rise in electrical current) that causes a further increase in temperature – leading to a destructive result.
You can prevent this from happening by:
1. Use ONLY DISTILLED WATER. Filtered water is NOT distilled water!
2. Starting with no more than ONE HALF teaspoon of baking soda, and add gradually only when you’re sure no excess heat is being generated. In your EcoCell 2 you should never need more than a ONE teaspoon. It will overheat your unit if you use too much.
3. Install away from heat. If this is not possible block the engine heat as much as possible by placing a heat shield (bubble wrap covered by aluminum foil) between the Electrolyzer and the engine. Leave at least 1-2” air space around the Electrolyzer.
A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized plumber’s strap. (Not supplied.) In other cases a small rubber pad (not supplied and usually not necessary) and/or two bungee cords (supplied) may be adequate.
Rarely there may be vehicles that do not have enough space in the engine compartment to mount the device. A possible solution is to use the area in front of the radiator. Fasten the device to the car’s frame or anything other than the radiator, belts or moving parts, and make sure that it does not touch the radiator.
That’s it for the mechanical installation and location. Now let’s move for connections and supply lines. The HHO device is operated by vacuum pressure from your vehicle’s engine, plus 12 Volt supply from your vehicle’s electrical system.
Where to hook the generator to your engine
Most people will be installing this device in a fuel injected car. It is assumed that you have already studied a little bit about this kind of device and are somewhat mechanically inclined.
On fuel injected cars you will want to run line from the EcoCell hydrogen generator to a connection fitting somewhere in the air intake tubing. You will need to get a 3/8 fitting from a home repair store and drill a hole for threaded plastic or brass fitting. This is where you will make your connection for your hydrogen. It is best to locate this fitting as close to the throttle body as possible for best results.
You may have to play around to find the best location for your connection to get the best results.
Make sure when you are routing your 3/8 tubing to your intake that you avoid extremely hot areas that could melt the tubing.
As a Safety precaution you should install a one way check valve between your hydrogen generator and your intake connection so that hydrogen can only flow one way.
It is also a good idea to install a “bubbler” for safety and as a visual aid to see your system working. Bubblers are easy to make and beyond the scope of this instruction set. If you google “hydrogen bubbler” you will find easy to make ideas for building your bubbler. A bubbler can prevent a flashback explosion if you should even have a backfire into your intake. Easy, cheap and safe!
See our online videos to get an idea of how to mount to mount your hydrogen generator and see how a bubbler works.
On cars with carburetors, it is best to hook up to a vacuum line going into the carb.
How to wire it up!
The device is designed to operate on 12 Volts. Refer to the wiring diagram below. If you’re not sure consult your auto mechanic (electric) for help.
1. Connect the one terminal of the device to the negative terminal of the vehicle’s battery, using the wire WITHOUT FUSE (black wire). If the battery is too far, connect it to the firewall or extend the wire all the way to the battery.
2. Identify a point in your vehicle’s electrical system which has a 12 Volts (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON (Position 2 of the Ignition Switch), such as the starter solenoid, window wiper motor, or similar circuit.
3. Turn the switch off and take out the key. Connect positive (12 Volts) to the other terminal of the device, using the FUSED wire supplied (red), to the point you’ve identified above.
4. To protect the wiring from long term damage, you can now put the newly installed wires into what’s called “split flex tubing”, see photo. You can find it in all major hardware stores such as Ace, Home depot. Don’t buy it online ($5 +S&H) because in the shop it’s only 99 cents for 10 ft.
5. It does NOT matter which side gets positive or negative! They are able to be swapped. In fact you should swap the connection points every time you replace your water mix.
6. You will want to use about a 15 amp fuse. If your 15 amp fuse blows then you have used too much baking soda… use a little less and replace the fuse.
· In most newer vehicles the fuses are located in a box, in the engine compartment. I just plug the wire into the fuse holder and reinsert the fuse. Usually it is a 10 Amp or 15 Amp ignition circuit, that I use. In some older cars where there was no fuse box to connect to, the wiper motor was found most useful as a supply point. I just splice into the SWITCHED 12 Volts and it works well.
· In some cars the electrical system may be in reverse (RED wire to the body of the car, or to the battery itself). If it gets confusing, consult an auto electrician who is familiar with your specific model.
Filling up and getting it going
· When you refill your hydrogen cell/s you need ONE HALF TEASPOON of PURE baking soda and DISTILLED WATER ONLY. Never exceed one teaspoon in the EcoCell in order to prevent overheating. The only exception is if you are running multiple cells but that is beyond the scope of these instructions. You may also add a capful or two of pure white vinegar to help keep the water cleaner. Check your water level a couple of times a week!
· >WEEK 1) After 7 days dump out the water mix and rinse out the sludge with distilled water then refill with the prescribed mix above.
· >WEEK 3) Dump out the water mix and refill with prescribed mix above.
· From here on out you can basically just check your water levels a couple of times a week to make sure you have about an INCH and a HALF of free air space at the top of your hydrogen cells. If it is low then just top it up with plain DISTILLED WATER.
· >>Once a month you should dump and replace your water mix and put in fresh mix as prescribed above. When you refill it is a good idea to SWAP the positive and negative hook up wires to the opposite side. This will help your plates wear evenly and help them last longer.
This simple maintenance will keep your hydrogen system performing its best!
*TIP Try to avoid gas that has “10% ethanol” as your mileage will suffer. When possible stick with real, non-ethanol enhanced gas
For the first few days or weeks you may see some excess sludge in your water. Don’t worry! This sludge lessens as your cells are conditioned. No matter how nasty the water may look… relax it is just fine. Even after the cells are conditioned you will still see gunk in the water. It is ok and totally normal.
You will also see rust on the plates and other parts inside… that is part of the production of hydrogen and oxygen and is also normal.