See larger image HHO PWM 12v 70a with Fan and Case (Electronics) New From: $89.00 In Stock

This unit is for advance Hydrogen tinkerers who want to dive deeper into HHO production. This is a Pulse Width Modulator designed to be used to enhance your hydrogen output. What Stanley Meyer learned and understood is that just plain old electrolysis just isn’t enough for higher production of HHO. Stanley Meyer in particular made use of this type of technology to help “fracture” the water.

The PWM not only pulses the voltage to hydrogen generator… it also delivers a variable frequency into your cell. Kind of like using your electrodes as a speaker of sorts. Once you find the resonant frequency of your cell you can achieve maximum HHO production with much less energy lost to heat. Another benefit is the preventing the run away condition within the hydrogen generator itself where as the heat rises the amps rise and decreases your efficiency.

We are featuring this very nice unit which has a max output of 70 amps meant for the serious HHO hobbyist. It will produce from 10khz – 30khz and has some interesting auto save feature not seen in other PWM units. The frequency and duty cycle can actually be auto saved. When you reach your optimum setting stop tuning for 2 seconds and it saves. The memory will allow the duty cycle and frequency to be replayed next time the unit is powered on.

It is 12 volt unit with a duty cycle of 0%-99% and has dual input and output wires.

So order this PWM for your mega hydrogen project and get to cracking some water like you mean it! Go on… Buy that puppy now! The price is right so get them while they are in stock.

Dual EFIE Circuit for HHO Hydrogen systems

Many times when you are adding a supplemental fuel system like a hydrogen on demand system, it becomes critical to alter the oxygen sensor data to achieve the best mileage.

Here is what happens, when you add the HHO to your cars engine it cleans the combustion process so much that your oxygen sensor thinks you are running lean. It cannot detect those nasty gasses and tells the computer to dump more fuel into the system. This wrecks your fuel gains from the hydrogen!

In this package one board includes TWO EFIE circuits. EFIE stands for Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer. If you noticed a brief mileage gain and then haven’t been seeing the same results since then… You need this DUAL EFIE to correct that. Get the most out of your hydrogen hybrid system.

This DUAL EFIE circuit can be used with one or TWO O2 sensor applications. Order now and get back to seeing those fuel saving gains!

All hydrogen products are sold for off road research only.

model # HC10

Scooter Hydrogen Hybrid System Installation Instructions

Watch the video below for instructions. You may watch it full screen.

Scooter Hydrogen Hybrid Maintenance Instructions

1. Every one to two weeks replace the water in your hydrogen generator. Empty the glass jar and clean it. Fill it with just a little more than one cup of DISTILLED water. Not tap water DISTILLED ONLY. Clean fresh water produces the most hydrogen.
2. You must mix baking soda as an electrolyte in the water for your hydrogen generator. You can use from 1/8 of a teaspoon up to ½ teaspoon. (teaspoons are the little ones) It should never take more than ½ teaspoon. The hydrogen production is controlled by how much baking soda you use, more baking soda = more hydrogen. Smaller engines need less, bigger enegines need more. Start with a little baking soda and work your way up. Experiment with what works best for you! You don’t need tons of hydrogen…
3. If you use too much baking soda your hydrogen generator will overheat and blow a fuse or boil over. At ½ teaspoon the generator will run very warm but not overheat, for best performance it should be mounted on the outside of the bike for good air flow.
4. Some water may leave the generator and enter the bubbler/water trap device as you ride and go through turns. That is fine and is intended to happen. As the generator cools it will suck the extra water back in where it belongs. The bubbler/water trap device is very important as a safety device and it also prevents water from entering your carburator. Your system should never be operated without it!
5. Once a month you should empty the bubbler/water trap device and clean the anti slosh material and inside of the device. Then add ½ inch of distilled water to the bubbler and then re-assemble. Do not ever add more than ½ inch of water to the bubbler device.

NOTE: Your water may turn golden, orange or brownish. This is perfectly normal and happens in every generator. It is nothing to worry about and your generator will continue to produce hydrogen even when really dirty and nasty. But by keeping your water changed out every 1-2 weeks, you should always have a nice clean hydrogen cell that works hard to make hydrogen. You may see a steamy mist form in the tube that goes to your air filter/box from the bubbler device. This is normal so do not panic. Even a few drops of condensation are perfectly fine. There should never be large amounts of water in that line.

Installation Instructions

Your Simple o2 Explained

1) Knob = O2 sensor  enhancer. Fully clockwise will be the lowest factory setting. Turning the knob right will lean out the car.

2) Switch= Turns on o2 sensor voltage adder circuit

Knob colors may vary depending on supply. If you want a particular color then radio shack has a nice selection.

The Wires:

Black = Negative terminal on your battery. NOT chassis ground. Hook this directly to your negative terminal for best results.

Red = Switched 12 volts. Can be from your hydrogen generator positive connection so it powers on when your hydrogen does. Any 12 volt supply that comes on when your car does is fine.

O2 sensor wire This wire goes to your o2 sensor signal wire. This may be red, blue, green, yellow, white or black if there are two red or two black wires on your box the o2 wire will always be the wire with the knot or tag. Make note of this wire as it is one of the most important wires on your device.

Test probe ports on device wires = Black is ground and red is o2 signal wire voltage. This makes tuning your o2 enhancer a breeze!

INSTALLING AND SETTING THE O2 SENSOR ENHANCER

The standard narrow band o2 sensor works like this. As it senses how much oxygen in your exhaust and it emits a pulsing voltage from .00 – .09 volts… or 0-900 millivolts.  As your engine burns cleaner the oxygen count goes up and that makes the voltage output of your 02 sensor go down. When this happens your computer starts to think it needs to dump more fuel to run richer. The ideal setting is about 450 millivolts This adder will simply allow you add a couple hundred millivolts to your 02 signal line to help keep the computer from going into that full rich mode.

You will need to find your oxygen sensor signal wire. There are many different kinds of o2 sensor configurations.  If you have one wire then this part is easy… if you have multiple wires then you should be able to find the right one using your multimeter.  So long as your vehicle uses a narrow band voltage based o2 sensor then it is easy to find. It will be the one with the fluctuating voltage lower than 1 volt. That is the wire we want to modify.

Learn more about standard narrow band o2 sensors here

FAQ about different types of o2 sensors

DO NOT CUT the o2 signal wire! Just strip back a little of the casing to expose some wire… or use a crimp tap connector of you like.

Now connect the o2 signal wire coming out of your new controller box directly to the o2 sensor signal wire you have just located.

Make sure you start with your right knob turned all the way CLOCKWISE for its lowest voltage. There are two test ports for you to stick you multimeter probes into for tuning. With your car running and your hydrogen on… see what the voltage reads. You should see it bouncing up and down from low to high. Now turn on your o2 adder by flipping the switch to the on position. You should see it increase a little and keep bouncing around up and down. We want to keep it in a target range of about 450 millivolts to keep the computer happy. So long as you see it bouncing up to about 450 you should stay out of the gas wasting zone. Some people find the best results by only adding about 200 millivolts.. others can push closer to 800 millivolts to push the limits of lean mixture.

At the lowest setting this device may output 200-300 millivolts and may be just right. This depends on your particular vehicle. Since it is designed to be used with our hydrogen generators, we often find that the lowest setting is just right about 30% of the time. On some vehicle the lowest setting will be much lower.

When adding voltage to your o2 sensors we ONLY need to modify the one before the catalytic converter. They are the only ones that count in most cars 96 and up. On older cars with only ONE o2 sensor then obviously you connect to that one.

IMPORTANT On some vehicles the o2 circuit voltage starts out at about 1.8 volts and drops to normal in about 60 seconds. If this causes strange idle at start up then we have found it best to wait a minute after you start the car to turn on the o2 adder circuit. Usually this causes no noticeable startup issues and we leave the switch on at all times.

When dealing with multiple o2 sensors simply run a wire to BOTH o2 sensor signal wires from the o2 output wire on your controller. Just start by adding a couple hundred millivolts and gradually go up from there until you car seems to balance out. Remember the o2 wire will be the one with the knots or tag. There is no need for 2 separate devices to run 2 o2 sensors. The voltage regulator in the “Simple O2″ is ready to run more o2 sensors than you could ever use.

Find your ideal setting on the o2 side then just leave it alone! To return your o2 sensor to stock just turn the device off!

It may take you a little bit to tune in your ideal voltage but be patient and once you find it then leave it alone. You may find that as you adjust it just way up or way down. The trick is to barely turn the knob. Use teeny tiny movements to find the proper range. Don’t just crank it up as it can go up to 4.5 volts so never turn it all the way up!

HOW TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BENEFITS

One recent set of road tests (6-16-07) averaged 52.4% better mileage. But tests from a week earlier on the same car averaged only 24.5%. Actually 22% if you count out idling. WHY such great difference?

The secret of the BIG DIFFERENCE between the two test groups: The later and more successful one got MORE THAN DOUBLE average gain, was because the MPG was not dialed to near choke point. It was about ¼ turn closer to factory setting! On the earlier tests I was choking the engine half to death. It reminds me of the greedy guy slaying the gold laying hen to get all the gold right now…

MY CONCLUSIONS

Don’t overwork the engine by leaning it too much – play around until you find the PERFECT BALANCE point. Leave it there at its best position.

This is a proven device that can help keep your cars ECU seeing the proper voltage range.

Installation Instructions

Your Mini Map enhancer explained

1) Knob = MAP/MAF enhancer. Fully counter-clockwise will be full rich or factory setting. Turning the knob right will lean out the car.

2) With the wires face the knob should be pointing straight down.

Knob colors may vary depending on supply. If you want a particular color then radio shack has a nice selection.

The Wires:

Black = Negative wire. This should be run to any solid chassis ground where convenient.

Clear Speaker Wires Are the MAP/MAF signal wires

Clear/copper = Connect to the MAP/MAF side of the signal wire at the cut

Clear/ silver or Clear/ copper with WHITE STRIPE = Connect this wire to the ECU side of the cut on your MAP/MAF signal wire.

>>IF BOTH of the speaker wires are copper then the one with the WHITE STRIPE goes to the ECU!

Test probe ports on device wires = Black is ground and red is o2 signal wire voltage. This makes tuning your o2 enhancer a breeze!

MAF/MAP SENSOR ENHANCER

If you have a hard time locating the wires DO NOT DO ANYTHING! Stop right there and leave this job to a mechanic. Guesswork won’t serve you right this time. One wrong connection may burn the computer and you’ll be wasting hundreds of dollars on repairs. This is a very simple connection but must be done with confidence.

ATTENTION: The tuning procedure calls for clockwise and counter-clockwise rotation of the knob. You will be full rich in the counter clockwise end and full lean in the clockwise. The idea is that turning clockwise will “enhance” the more you turn.

Now locate the 3 wires connected to the MAP or MAF sensor. These will be located coming off of a sensor either near the throttle body or near your air filter. There will be one for the positive supply voltage, usually 5 or 12 volts but it does not matter. The signal will be the one with the WEAKER voltage, and will change with RPM if you start the engine and rev it up. And there will be a ground wire.

You want to CUT the signal wire so we can tap into it and alter it. You can solder or crimp electrical wire connectors, so you can always hook it back to factory setup. But I doubt if you’ll ever want to go back!

You will want to connect a wire from the clear/copper wire of the HydroCommander to the MAP/MAF side of this cut. This will carry the original signal to our commander. Next you want to connect the clear/silver with to the ECU side of the cut. This will carry our modified signal on out to the cars computer.

If you cannot locate the sensor or the wires, or you’re not sure, you’d better get the car’s manual. DO NOT IMPROVISE OR GUESS – you may damage your computer. You can always walk into AutoZone and purchase the maintenance manual (Haynes) specific to the fuel injection system of your test car.

You can simply use a common multimeter to probe the wires in this group of three wires to identify the sensor wire as described above.

Now for actual tuning on the road.

1. Turn the knob all the way to “rich” (it should be fully counter clockwise). This will be factory original.
2. Make sure your hydrogen device is operational. Warm up the engine and drive a while before messing with the knob.
3. DO THE NEXT STEP WITH CARE – ON A SIDE ROAD – JUST IN CASE YOUR ENGINE STOPS UNEXPECTEDLY.
4. Now start turning the knob clockwise, the mixture will turn leaner and leaner until the car stalls or bucks as you drive. Back the knob off slightly after the bucking and chugging.
5. Keep the danger of overheating in mind. If your hydrogen device is non operational temporarily, set the enhancer at or near original factory setting (rich).
6. Another thing I’ve noticed is that set points change from one gas station fuel to another, weather conditions, cold engine, etc. The differences are not large, but if you’re on the edge then the car will buck or vibrate and you’ll need to change the set point a bit. Remember that this is a simple device. There is no point in computerizing it, it will require a whole new programmable ECU which is a very costly thing for most drivers and countries.
7. NOTE: When this device turns on the “check engine light”, and it WILL do that, you can turn off the light using a ScanGauge-II (1996 cars or newer).

HOW TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BENEFITS

One recent set of road tests (6-16-07) averaged 52.4% better mileage. But tests from a week earlier on the same car averaged only 24.5%. Actually 22% if you count out idling. WHY such great difference?

The secret of the BIG DIFFERENCE between the two test groups: The later and more successful one got MORE THAN DOUBLE average gain, was because the MPG was not dialed to near choke point. It was about ¼ turn closer to factory setting! On the earlier tests I was choking the engine half to death. It reminds me of the greedy guy slaying the gold laying hen to get all the gold right now…

MY CONCLUSIONS

Don’t overwork the engine by leaning it too much – play around until you find the PERFECT BALANCE point. Leave it where at its best position.

Now there’s a bit of a problem because the “best position” will vary by driving area and environmental conditions. I have found that there could be two or even three points that you want to be set at:

1. Absolute maximum gas savings for highways.
2. A bit less than that for city driving, because you’ll need extra power to start off after each stop.
3. Possibly you may want to switch back and forth between full rich and full lean (maximum lean that doesn’t kill the engine and doesn’t cause bucking or vibration) mixture, so you can compare the effect of the enhancer. That’s what I used to get easy readouts in my tests.

THIS IS MY OWN CONCLUSION. I am willing to be proven wrong, but so far the results indicate that this principle can work in your favor. One last note, I studied other solutions and methods. I believe they are of some benefit, but they are mostly VERY complicated, far beyond the scope of our philosophy of keep-it-simple (and affordable) .