Scooter Hydrogen Hybrid System Installation Instructions

Watch the video below for instructions. You may watch it full screen.

Scooter Hydrogen Hybrid Maintenance Instructions

1. Every one to two weeks replace the water in your hydrogen generator. Empty the glass jar and clean it. Fill it with just a little more than one cup of DISTILLED water. Not tap water DISTILLED ONLY. Clean fresh water produces the most hydrogen.
2. You must mix baking soda as an electrolyte in the water for your hydrogen generator. You can use from 1/8 of a teaspoon up to ½ teaspoon. (teaspoons are the little ones) It should never take more than ½ teaspoon. The hydrogen production is controlled by how much baking soda you use, more baking soda = more hydrogen. Smaller engines need less, bigger enegines need more. Start with a little baking soda and work your way up. Experiment with what works best for you! You don’t need tons of hydrogen…
3. If you use too much baking soda your hydrogen generator will overheat and blow a fuse or boil over. At ½ teaspoon the generator will run very warm but not overheat, for best performance it should be mounted on the outside of the bike for good air flow.
4. Some water may leave the generator and enter the bubbler/water trap device as you ride and go through turns. That is fine and is intended to happen. As the generator cools it will suck the extra water back in where it belongs. The bubbler/water trap device is very important as a safety device and it also prevents water from entering your carburator. Your system should never be operated without it!
5. Once a month you should empty the bubbler/water trap device and clean the anti slosh material and inside of the device. Then add ½ inch of distilled water to the bubbler and then re-assemble. Do not ever add more than ½ inch of water to the bubbler device.

NOTE: Your water may turn golden, orange or brownish. This is perfectly normal and happens in every generator. It is nothing to worry about and your generator will continue to produce hydrogen even when really dirty and nasty. But by keeping your water changed out every 1-2 weeks, you should always have a nice clean hydrogen cell that works hard to make hydrogen. You may see a steamy mist form in the tube that goes to your air filter/box from the bubbler device. This is normal so do not panic. Even a few drops of condensation are perfectly fine. There should never be large amounts of water in that line.

Installation Instructions

Your Simple o2 Explained

1) Knob = O2 sensor  enhancer. Fully clockwise will be the lowest factory setting. Turning the knob right will lean out the car.

2) Switch= Turns on o2 sensor voltage adder circuit

Knob colors may vary depending on supply. If you want a particular color then radio shack has a nice selection.

The Wires:

Black = Negative terminal on your battery. NOT chassis ground. Hook this directly to your negative terminal for best results.

Red = Switched 12 volts. Can be from your hydrogen generator positive connection so it powers on when your hydrogen does. Any 12 volt supply that comes on when your car does is fine.

O2 sensor wire This wire goes to your o2 sensor signal wire. This may be red, blue, green, yellow, white or black if there are two red or two black wires on your box the o2 wire will always be the wire with the knot or tag. Make note of this wire as it is one of the most important wires on your device.

Test probe ports on device wires = Black is ground and red is o2 signal wire voltage. This makes tuning your o2 enhancer a breeze!

INSTALLING AND SETTING THE O2 SENSOR ENHANCER

The standard narrow band o2 sensor works like this. As it senses how much oxygen in your exhaust and it emits a pulsing voltage from .00 – .09 volts… or 0-900 millivolts.  As your engine burns cleaner the oxygen count goes up and that makes the voltage output of your 02 sensor go down. When this happens your computer starts to think it needs to dump more fuel to run richer. The ideal setting is about 450 millivolts This adder will simply allow you add a couple hundred millivolts to your 02 signal line to help keep the computer from going into that full rich mode.

You will need to find your oxygen sensor signal wire. There are many different kinds of o2 sensor configurations.  If you have one wire then this part is easy… if you have multiple wires then you should be able to find the right one using your multimeter.  So long as your vehicle uses a narrow band voltage based o2 sensor then it is easy to find. It will be the one with the fluctuating voltage lower than 1 volt. That is the wire we want to modify.

Learn more about standard narrow band o2 sensors here

FAQ about different types of o2 sensors

DO NOT CUT the o2 signal wire! Just strip back a little of the casing to expose some wire… or use a crimp tap connector of you like.

Now connect the o2 signal wire coming out of your new controller box directly to the o2 sensor signal wire you have just located.

Make sure you start with your right knob turned all the way CLOCKWISE for its lowest voltage. There are two test ports for you to stick you multimeter probes into for tuning. With your car running and your hydrogen on… see what the voltage reads. You should see it bouncing up and down from low to high. Now turn on your o2 adder by flipping the switch to the on position. You should see it increase a little and keep bouncing around up and down. We want to keep it in a target range of about 450 millivolts to keep the computer happy. So long as you see it bouncing up to about 450 you should stay out of the gas wasting zone. Some people find the best results by only adding about 200 millivolts.. others can push closer to 800 millivolts to push the limits of lean mixture.

At the lowest setting this device may output 200-300 millivolts and may be just right. This depends on your particular vehicle. Since it is designed to be used with our hydrogen generators, we often find that the lowest setting is just right about 30% of the time. On some vehicle the lowest setting will be much lower.

When adding voltage to your o2 sensors we ONLY need to modify the one before the catalytic converter. They are the only ones that count in most cars 96 and up. On older cars with only ONE o2 sensor then obviously you connect to that one.

IMPORTANT On some vehicles the o2 circuit voltage starts out at about 1.8 volts and drops to normal in about 60 seconds. If this causes strange idle at start up then we have found it best to wait a minute after you start the car to turn on the o2 adder circuit. Usually this causes no noticeable startup issues and we leave the switch on at all times.

When dealing with multiple o2 sensors simply run a wire to BOTH o2 sensor signal wires from the o2 output wire on your controller. Just start by adding a couple hundred millivolts and gradually go up from there until you car seems to balance out. Remember the o2 wire will be the one with the knots or tag. There is no need for 2 separate devices to run 2 o2 sensors. The voltage regulator in the “Simple O2″ is ready to run more o2 sensors than you could ever use.

Find your ideal setting on the o2 side then just leave it alone! To return your o2 sensor to stock just turn the device off!

It may take you a little bit to tune in your ideal voltage but be patient and once you find it then leave it alone. You may find that as you adjust it just way up or way down. The trick is to barely turn the knob. Use teeny tiny movements to find the proper range. Don’t just crank it up as it can go up to 4.5 volts so never turn it all the way up!

HOW TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BENEFITS

One recent set of road tests (6-16-07) averaged 52.4% better mileage. But tests from a week earlier on the same car averaged only 24.5%. Actually 22% if you count out idling. WHY such great difference?

The secret of the BIG DIFFERENCE between the two test groups: The later and more successful one got MORE THAN DOUBLE average gain, was because the MPG was not dialed to near choke point. It was about ¼ turn closer to factory setting! On the earlier tests I was choking the engine half to death. It reminds me of the greedy guy slaying the gold laying hen to get all the gold right now…

MY CONCLUSIONS

Don’t overwork the engine by leaning it too much – play around until you find the PERFECT BALANCE point. Leave it there at its best position.

This is a proven device that can help keep your cars ECU seeing the proper voltage range.

Installation Instructions

Your Mini Map enhancer explained

1) Knob = MAP/MAF enhancer. Fully counter-clockwise will be full rich or factory setting. Turning the knob right will lean out the car.

2) With the wires face the knob should be pointing straight down.

Knob colors may vary depending on supply. If you want a particular color then radio shack has a nice selection.

The Wires:

Black = Negative wire. This should be run to any solid chassis ground where convenient.

Clear Speaker Wires Are the MAP/MAF signal wires

Clear/copper = Connect to the MAP/MAF side of the signal wire at the cut

Clear/ silver or Clear/ copper with WHITE STRIPE = Connect this wire to the ECU side of the cut on your MAP/MAF signal wire.

>>IF BOTH of the speaker wires are copper then the one with the WHITE STRIPE goes to the ECU!

Test probe ports on device wires = Black is ground and red is o2 signal wire voltage. This makes tuning your o2 enhancer a breeze!

MAF/MAP SENSOR ENHANCER

If you have a hard time locating the wires DO NOT DO ANYTHING! Stop right there and leave this job to a mechanic. Guesswork won’t serve you right this time. One wrong connection may burn the computer and you’ll be wasting hundreds of dollars on repairs. This is a very simple connection but must be done with confidence.

ATTENTION: The tuning procedure calls for clockwise and counter-clockwise rotation of the knob. You will be full rich in the counter clockwise end and full lean in the clockwise. The idea is that turning clockwise will “enhance” the more you turn.

Now locate the 3 wires connected to the MAP or MAF sensor. These will be located coming off of a sensor either near the throttle body or near your air filter. There will be one for the positive supply voltage, usually 5 or 12 volts but it does not matter. The signal will be the one with the WEAKER voltage, and will change with RPM if you start the engine and rev it up. And there will be a ground wire.

You want to CUT the signal wire so we can tap into it and alter it. You can solder or crimp electrical wire connectors, so you can always hook it back to factory setup. But I doubt if you’ll ever want to go back!

You will want to connect a wire from the clear/copper wire of the HydroCommander to the MAP/MAF side of this cut. This will carry the original signal to our commander. Next you want to connect the clear/silver with to the ECU side of the cut. This will carry our modified signal on out to the cars computer.

If you cannot locate the sensor or the wires, or you’re not sure, you’d better get the car’s manual. DO NOT IMPROVISE OR GUESS – you may damage your computer. You can always walk into AutoZone and purchase the maintenance manual (Haynes) specific to the fuel injection system of your test car.

You can simply use a common multimeter to probe the wires in this group of three wires to identify the sensor wire as described above.

Now for actual tuning on the road.

1. Turn the knob all the way to “rich” (it should be fully counter clockwise). This will be factory original.
2. Make sure your hydrogen device is operational. Warm up the engine and drive a while before messing with the knob.
3. DO THE NEXT STEP WITH CARE – ON A SIDE ROAD – JUST IN CASE YOUR ENGINE STOPS UNEXPECTEDLY.
4. Now start turning the knob clockwise, the mixture will turn leaner and leaner until the car stalls or bucks as you drive. Back the knob off slightly after the bucking and chugging.
5. Keep the danger of overheating in mind. If your hydrogen device is non operational temporarily, set the enhancer at or near original factory setting (rich).
6. Another thing I’ve noticed is that set points change from one gas station fuel to another, weather conditions, cold engine, etc. The differences are not large, but if you’re on the edge then the car will buck or vibrate and you’ll need to change the set point a bit. Remember that this is a simple device. There is no point in computerizing it, it will require a whole new programmable ECU which is a very costly thing for most drivers and countries.
7. NOTE: When this device turns on the “check engine light”, and it WILL do that, you can turn off the light using a ScanGauge-II (1996 cars or newer).

HOW TO MAXIMIZE YOUR BENEFITS

One recent set of road tests (6-16-07) averaged 52.4% better mileage. But tests from a week earlier on the same car averaged only 24.5%. Actually 22% if you count out idling. WHY such great difference?

The secret of the BIG DIFFERENCE between the two test groups: The later and more successful one got MORE THAN DOUBLE average gain, was because the MPG was not dialed to near choke point. It was about ¼ turn closer to factory setting! On the earlier tests I was choking the engine half to death. It reminds me of the greedy guy slaying the gold laying hen to get all the gold right now…

MY CONCLUSIONS

Don’t overwork the engine by leaning it too much – play around until you find the PERFECT BALANCE point. Leave it where at its best position.

Now there’s a bit of a problem because the “best position” will vary by driving area and environmental conditions. I have found that there could be two or even three points that you want to be set at:

1. Absolute maximum gas savings for highways.
2. A bit less than that for city driving, because you’ll need extra power to start off after each stop.
3. Possibly you may want to switch back and forth between full rich and full lean (maximum lean that doesn’t kill the engine and doesn’t cause bucking or vibration) mixture, so you can compare the effect of the enhancer. That’s what I used to get easy readouts in my tests.

THIS IS MY OWN CONCLUSION. I am willing to be proven wrong, but so far the results indicate that this principle can work in your favor. One last note, I studied other solutions and methods. I believe they are of some benefit, but they are mostly VERY complicated, far beyond the scope of our philosophy of keep-it-simple (and affordable) .

Ecocell2 Instructions: How to install your hydrogen generator or booster

You will need various things to complete your install:

· Basic hand tools

· Maybe some extra wire

· About 3-4 feet of 3/8 tubing

· Zip ties

· Possibly some bungee cords

Your package should have contained:

· One Hydrogen Generator (also called an electrolyzer)

· One fuse holder

· 2 wires, one black and one red

Mount the HHO EcoCell 2 hydrogen device in the engine compartment. It should be mounted flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around when the vehicle hits bumps etc. Position the device so that it can easily be accessed and can be conveniently removed and filled with water, or cleaned, serviced or inspected.

IMPORTANT: INSTALL THE DEVICE AWAY FROM HOT AREAS as much as possible. If you’re not sure where that is, Harbor Freight Tools has a digital non-contact thermometer for under $7 (item 93983-2VGA). Use this tool to locate the coolest available place in the engine area.

I cannot give you an exact number here for what is “too hot”, because there is a combination of heating factors here: weather, engine, and the electrolysis process itself. All I can tell you that in two cases the Electrolyzer mostly melted and only the glass survived. In both cases this occurred as a result of (1) too much heat radiated by the engine through the air to the Electrolyzer, and (2) too much electrolyte. There is a situation called Thermal Runaway, where an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in this case the rise in electrical current) that causes a further increase in temperature – leading to a destructive result.

You can prevent this from happening by:

1. Use ONLY DISTILLED WATER. Filtered water is NOT distilled water!

2. Starting with no more than ONE HALF teaspoon of baking soda, and add gradually only when you’re sure no excess heat is being generated. In your EcoCell 2 you should never need more than a ONE teaspoon. It will overheat your unit if you use too much.

3. Install away from heat. If this is not possible block the engine heat as much as possible by placing a heat shield (bubble wrap covered by aluminum foil) between the Electrolyzer and the engine. Leave at least 1-2” air space around the Electrolyzer.

A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized plumber’s strap. (Not supplied.) In other cases a small rubber pad (not supplied and usually not necessary) and/or two bungee cords (supplied) may be adequate.

Rarely there may be vehicles that do not have enough space in the engine compartment to mount the device. A possible solution is to use the area in front of the radiator. Fasten the device to the car’s frame or anything other than the radiator, belts or moving parts, and make sure that it does not touch the radiator.

That’s it for the mechanical installation and location. Now let’s move for connections and supply lines. The HHO device is operated by vacuum pressure from your vehicle’s engine, plus 12 Volt supply from your vehicle’s electrical system.

Where to hook the generator to your engine

Most people will be installing this device in a fuel injected car. It is assumed that you have already studied a little bit about this kind of device and are somewhat mechanically inclined.

On fuel injected cars you will want to run line from the EcoCell hydrogen generator to a connection fitting somewhere in the air intake tubing. You will need to get a 3/8 fitting from a home repair store and drill a hole for threaded plastic or brass fitting. This is where you will make your connection for your hydrogen. It is best to locate this fitting as close to the throttle body as possible for best results.

You may have to play around to find the best location for your connection to get the best results.

Make sure when you are routing your 3/8 tubing to your intake that you avoid extremely hot areas that could melt the tubing.

As a Safety precaution you should install a one way check valve between your hydrogen generator and your intake connection so that hydrogen can only flow one way.

It is also a good idea to install a “bubbler” for safety and as a visual aid to see your system working. Bubblers are easy to make and beyond the scope of this instruction set. If you google “hydrogen bubbler” you will find easy to make ideas for building your bubbler. A bubbler can prevent a flashback explosion if you should even have a backfire into your intake. Easy, cheap and safe!

See our online videos to get an idea of how to mount to mount your hydrogen generator and see how a bubbler works.

On cars with carburetors, it is best to hook up to a vacuum line going into the carb.

How to wire it up!

The device is designed to operate on 12 Volts. Refer to the wiring diagram below. If you’re not sure consult your auto mechanic (electric) for help.

1. Connect the one terminal of the device to the negative terminal of the vehicle’s battery, using the wire WITHOUT FUSE (black wire). If the battery is too far, connect it to the firewall or extend the wire all the way to the battery.

2. Identify a point in your vehicle’s electrical system which has a 12 Volts (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON (Position 2 of the Ignition Switch), such as the starter solenoid, window wiper motor, or similar circuit.

3. Turn the switch off and take out the key. Connect positive (12 Volts) to the other terminal of the device, using the FUSED wire supplied (red), to the point you’ve identified above.

4. To protect the wiring from long term damage, you can now put the newly installed wires into what’s called “split flex tubing”, see photo. You can find it in all major hardware stores such as Ace, Home depot. Don’t buy it online ($5 +S&H) because in the shop it’s only 99 cents for 10 ft.

5. It does NOT matter which side gets positive or negative! They are able to be swapped. In fact you should swap the connection points every time you replace your water mix.

6. You will want to use about a 15 amp fuse. If your 15 amp fuse blows then you have used too much baking soda… use a little less and replace the fuse.

NOTES:

· In most newer vehicles the fuses are located in a box, in the engine compartment. I just plug the wire into the fuse holder and reinsert the fuse. Usually it is a 10 Amp or 15 Amp ignition circuit, that I use. In some older cars where there was no fuse box to connect to, the wiper motor was found most useful as a supply point. I just splice into the SWITCHED 12 Volts and it works well.

· In some cars the electrical system may be in reverse (RED wire to the body of the car, or to the battery itself). If it gets confusing, consult an auto electrician who is familiar with your specific model.

Filling up and getting it going

· When you refill your hydrogen cell/s you need ONE HALF TEASPOON of PURE baking soda and DISTILLED WATER ONLY. Never exceed one teaspoon in the EcoCell in order to prevent overheating. The only exception is if you are running multiple cells but that is beyond the scope of these instructions. You may also add a capful or two of pure white vinegar to help keep the water cleaner. Check your water level a couple of times a week!

· >WEEK 1) After 7 days dump out the water mix and rinse out the sludge with distilled water then refill with the prescribed mix above.

· >WEEK 3) Dump out the water mix and refill with prescribed mix above.

· From here on out you can basically just check your water levels a couple of times a week to make sure you have about an INCH and a HALF of free air space at the top of your hydrogen cells. If it is low then just top it up with plain DISTILLED WATER.

· >>Once a month you should dump and replace your water mix and put in fresh mix as prescribed above. When you refill it is a good idea to SWAP the positive and negative hook up wires to the opposite side. This will help your plates wear evenly and help them last longer.

This simple maintenance will keep your hydrogen system performing its best!

*TIP Try to avoid gas that has “10% ethanol” as your mileage will suffer. When possible stick with real, non-ethanol enhanced gas

For the first few days or weeks you may see some excess sludge in your water. Don’t worry! This sludge lessens as your cells are conditioned. No matter how nasty the water may look… relax it is just fine. Even after the cells are conditioned you will still see gunk in the water. It is ok and totally normal.

You will also see rust on the plates and other parts inside… that is part of the production of hydrogen and oxygen and is also normal.

Over the past few months I have been shocked at the things I have seen in the world of gasoline. You see shows on TV talking about the possible gasoline shortages. They show long line at the gas stations and folk riding around trying to find gas. Gas stations close due to not having any product to sell. The stations that do have gas have to limit supply so that everyone can get some… Think about that… what would you do??

Gas shortages gripped the southeast as gas dried up !

You think: “yeah but Jason that could never happen here! This is America!”

I thought the same thing when watching some of these shows that came on TV. I thought that could never happen. I always thought they were being a little extreme… Then the 2008 hurricane season hit.

The 2008 hurricane season led to a historic fuel outage in parts of the southeast USA. I had been burried in small engine hydrogen research and not really paying attention. Gas had hit just under $4 a gallon and I had been riding my hydrogen hybrid test motorcycle.

One day I get on my bike and stop in to get gas and the pumps all have bags on them. The store was even closed… On to the next place… same deal! No Gas! Over the next two and a half weeks I took picture after picture of gas stations with no gas at all. Some stations had only regular and no premium. Some stations only had premium. Gas has hit over $4 dollar a gallon and the state stepped in to protect consumers here in South Carolina.

Can you imagine riding up to a gas pump and seeing a sign that says “temporarily out of this product?”

What would you do if your local gas station ran out of gas?

That day I decided that this hydrogen fuel saving technolgy must be spread to as much of the population as possible. I was truly thankful to have a car that was getting a 45% increase in mileage during a time of a true fuel shortage. My phone was rining off the hook and I was trying to help as many folks as possible conserve every bit of fuel they can.

Now that there is a temporary dip in gas prices the phone has calmed down a bit. I look back at this historic fuel shortage in the southeastern US and can’t help but to think … where will the next fuel shortage hit? Gas prices hit $4.19 a gallon and people were lined up for blocks.

Are your friends and family prepared for the next time prices climb through the roof?

Since I can’t help everyone, I have decided to release a video series on CD that will teach you how to build every device we sell and install to our clients and friends. Come sit down with me at my workbench as I build our hydrogen generator, map sensor enhancer and even our popular Simple O2 voltage adding device! I show you step by step how to build and install each of these devices from materials you can find at local home repair stores and radio shack.

Another empty gas station with no gas!

I just want this technology out there in as many hands as possible. So come get a copy of my CD called “Hydrogen Revolution v2.0” and start building your own hydrogen cells and EFIE type devices easily at home. I even give you permission to build our devices for profit. Build these systems for your friends and family and keep all of the profit for yourself!

Come to www.HydroHybrids.Net now to pick up your copy of “Hydrogen Revolution v2.0”

Click here to get your copy of “Hydrogen Revolution v2.0 Video Classes”

Jason Miller

HydroHybrids.Net